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How To Get The Fault Codes
Shut your engine off if it is running. Turn the iginition key to the on and off positions (do not turn the key to the start position) within 5 seconds using this sequence: ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON.
The "Power Loss", "Limited", or "Check Engine" light will begin flashing. By counting the number of flashes between delays, you will retrieve two digit numbers. So, for a code 12 and a code 55, you would see the following sequence:
FLASH-(delay)-FLASH-FLASH-(long delay)
FLASH-FLASH-FLASH-FLASH-FLASH-(delay)-FLASH-FLASH-FLASH-FLASH-FLASH
All code sequences end with a code 55, so once you've received a 55 there are no further messages. If you just receive a code 55, that means there are no codes to send (the ECU thinks everything is OK). It is also normal see a code 33 if you do not have air conditioning. You will never see more than 7 flashes in a row, so watch for delays. A code will stay in the ECU for 15 engine on/off cycles, so don't expect a code to disappear immediately after you make a repair. To see if you have fixed the problem that generated the code, your can erase all codes by removing power to the ECU (by disconnecting the battery or otherwise) for about 10 minutes. This will clear the ECU's memory and generate code 11 and code 12. Crank or start the engine to see if the code in question returns. The code 11 should disappear as soon as the engine is cranked and the code 12 will disappear after 15 on/off cycles.
When the ECU has a failure of a major sensor or component, it will activate a "limp-in" mode. In this mode, it will ignore data from the failed sensor and use backup values for timing, injector pulse width, etc. This allows you to "limp in" to your service station (or home) to allow you to repair the problem. If your vehicle suddenly starts to run badly and/or the power loss light comes on, the first thing you should do when you get home is to check the codes.
After the codes have been delivered, you can try the switch tests. These tests are for all driver inputs (brakes, A/C switch, cruise, etc). The test is performed by simply pressing the switches and pedals. If the input is working properly, the power loss light will come on when it is activated and will go out when it is deactivated.
Turbo Dodge ECU Fault Codes
11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall effect) OR loss of camshaft sensor (and, for cars with crankshaft sensors — which does not include the 2.2/2.5 — timing belt skipped a tooth or loss of crankshaft sensor). See note #8 below.
12 Battery or computer recently disconnected (will occur on most cars most of the time, it indicates a low / missing battery happened in the last 50 key starts. Don't worry about it. — Tom Wand)
13* MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
14* MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)
17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
22* Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing
23* Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
24* Throttle position sensor over 4.96V (SEE NOTE #3)
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors) (SEE NOTE #4 BELOW)
27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
- check computer, connections
31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
32 (1990-92, all but Turbo) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
35 (trucks) idle switch motor fault - check connections
36 (turbo) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
36 (Turbo IV) #3 Vent Solenoid open/short
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed
OR
part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
OR
solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV)
OR
Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on; see NOTE 2)
41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (Bob Lincoln wrote: may be tripped by a bad MAP sensor system causing a rich condition, and the O2 sensor trying to compensate. The O2 sensor may still be good. The MAP assembly consists of two pieces, the valve and the vacuum transducer (round plastic unit with cylinder on top and both electrical and vacuum connections) - If you get hot rough idle and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2 sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold driveability, stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage (a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor. [Webmaster note: MAP sensors seem to die regularly.]
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position (SEE NOTE #5!)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
55 End of codes
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