The Electrical Part
When you convert a TI car to TII specs, in addition to the addition of the Intercooler and larger fuel injectors (and other TII specific hardware), you also need to change the L.M. & do a bit of wiring for two reasons:
- To control the larger injectors which are needed with the higher hp applications.
- The automatic idle speed motor (AIS) is a new 4 wire design which is quite different in operation from the old and crude 2 wire setup.
Which logic module you will be using will depend on your cars wiring. In 1987 Chrysler changed around the pinouts of the logic module in the majority of cars to accommodate external map sensors and ECU controlled cruise control.
86-87 GLHS logic module.
85-87 L-bodies (Charger & Omni), early 87 P-body (Shadow & Sundance), 85-86 Daytona, Lebaron, 400, 600, New Yorker, Lancer & GTS.
87 Daytona, 87 CSX & 87 Shelby Lancer logic module.
Can be used in all 87 vehicles except L-bodies and early P-bodies. Early P-bodies used the 86 wiring and are easy to identify by looking at the logic module. If the map sensor is inside the LM it's a early car that uses GLHS electronics. If the map sensor is under hood, it uses the later Daytona electronics.
NOTE: You can use the 87 L.M. in a car that normally would use the 86-87 GLHS module. The problem would be of course that you would have to move around a number of pins in the L.M. connector and wire up an external map sensor. Since there is no real functional reason to do this, I won't cover this subject here.
If searching the junkyards for a Daytona module (I doubt you will find a GLHS module in a junkyard) be aware that Chrysler did sell non-intercooled Shelby z's! If a car was ordered with an automatic transmission it automatically came with the Turbo I engine so that computer is useless to you.
The part number on the 87 Daytona TII computer I have here ends with 171 (I also have one that ends with 077 but have not confirmed it's a TII computer yet) the 87 CSX computer p.n. ends with 079. You can also convert modules over to the calibrations you need if you know someone good with electronics and a prom burner. If no modules can be found you can always purchase the Mopar Performance Stage II modules from your local dealer or Summit Racing for about $150.
- 86-87 GLHS Stage II = P.N. P5249670
- 87 Daytona/CSX Stage II = P.N. P5249671
NOTE: I strongly recommend a manual boost controller as each computer is calibrated for just the turbo & wastegate setup as it left the factory. Different turbos, larger exhaust systems and missing vacuum orifices will throw the computer controlled system out of whack and most of the time not work correctly. Grainger it with one of our filtered grainger valve setups! <LEARN MORE>
Summary- Run two new wires from the AIS plug to the LM, insert 2 pins into the red LM plug, attach the 2 wires to the new pins, cut off the old 2 wire AIS plug under the hood at the throttle body, attach 2 of the wires from the old plug harness to the new AIS plug and then attach the 2 new underhood wires to the new AIS plug.
Cut off old TPS plug and swap for new style TPS plug.
NOTE- The AIS wiring pinouts is the same for both the GLHS and Daytona logic modules, there is still other wiring differences that prevent GLHS modules from being used in cars that would normally use the Daytona modules and vice versa.
Make sure you are using the correct module for your application.
Run a electrical taped up pair of wires from AIS area at the throttle body, along the main harness on the rear of the firewall, through the rubber LM grommet in the firewall to a area just above the LM red connector. I'd tie wrap the wires every 3-4 inches or so and follow the factory harness as close as you can. Remember to leave plenty of slack at each end (it's easy to shorten wire, a pain to make it longer) and watch out for any moving parts! It's a pain getting the wiring through the firewall at the grommet- you can route it another way as long as extreme care is taken.
Extract 2 pins from the spare LM plug (or from the factory Chrysler radio plugs at the back of the radio, they are the same connector) you picked up from a junkyard (I always look for ones with black and purple wires myself, at least light and dark.)
Let assume your using pins with black and purple wires attached- The black pin will go into location 16, the purple pin will go into location 20. The 87 LM connector has a lock piece which will have to be removed with a small screwdriver before the pins can be inserted. After the pins are installed, reinstall the lock piece and gently tug on the pins to make sure they aren't going to come out. Now solder and tape your new pin/wires to the 2 wires you ran through the firewall (black to black, purple to purple) and the inside part is done.
Refer to the wiring diagram below for the next two steps
Cutoff the AIS wiring from the old 2 wire AIS connector making sure to leave enough to soldier the new plug on and have the correct length.
What your going to do is take the 2 wires from the factory harness that went to the old AIS motor (which are brown & gray with a red stripe) and wire them to the new AIS plug as shown. Depending on what year car you stripped the AIS plug from the wiring may or may not accurately reflect the above diagram, I found most of the time it's the same or pretty close. Now take the 2 new wires that you ran and connect them to the 2 remaining pins, the black wire to N4 (black with a yellow stripe) and the purple wire to N3 (violet with a black stripe) solider and tape.
Cut off the old TPS wiring near old TPS sensor and attach new TPS plug, color code should be the same OR at least the major colors (not the stripes) will match. Again this will depend on what year car you strip the connector from.
NOTE: Some 87 Turbo I engines already have the newer style connector and you will be able to skip this step.
Plug the TPS and AIS connectors in and your done.